1. Durability. Granite is virtually indestructible. If it is installed correctly, I can’t think of an interior finish that will outlast it.
2. Unique colors and patterns. There are hundreds of varieties of marble available in colors that will match any interior finish.
3. Affordability. Because of the current depressed builder market, there are some excellent deals available on granite counters. You still need to seek references and be sure you are hiring a company that knows what they are doing.

The following questions about granite are the main ones asked by homeowners:

Do we need to have the granite sealed every year?
The answer to this is usually no. If you test the granite to see. If it needs sealer (place a small amount of water on the stone and if it penetrates the stone and darkens the stone it needs a sealer) one application should be adequate for many years.

Does the granite need to be polished yearly?
Not really. Under normal circumstances, there are very few ways for granite to loose its polish finish. Under these circumstances it may become necessary to refinish using abrasive diamond disks.

The main thing I try to tell homeowners about granite is that there is one main substance that will ruin the counter. This is a common household cooking ingredient that even the best sealer will prevent for only a matter of hours. The threat to granite is ordinary cooking oil. It will penetrate and stain the stone, with little hope of removal. Sealers are great at providing a level of oil resistance, but over a matter of hours, the oil will penetrate.

These family room carpets are often Berber or loop (both even and uneven) and they are popular because of their bulk. Olefin as a fiber is the least expensive yarn in carpet production. This is where the bulk or increased face weight comes from. Because it is a cheaper fiber, it is attractive for home builders looking to save money and still provide a loop configuration.

The problem with olefin is in the way it is sold. For years it has been sold as a virtually indestructible. Carpet showroom employees typically mention to customers that olefin carpet can be cleaned with bleach. Let me be the first to say this is almost always a bad idea. The bleach simply adds oxygen to the spot and when used in excess can degrade the carpet backing and cause delamination. Moisture bypass to the backing is a real problem with olefin. Liquid go to the backing because the fiber holds no water.

Olefin is the most nonabsorbent fiber. Most fibers absorb a certain amount of water and this actually helps the cleaning process. Olefin has a specific gravity that is higher than water. If you cut off a piece of olefin and put it in a container of water it will float. More about this in a minute.

Because olefin is solution dyed (it has no fiber dye sites like nylon or wool) it has some stain resistant characteristics. Another equally important negative characteristic is that the fiber is oleophilic – it loves oil. And this is really the Achilles heel of the fiber as far as cleaning goes.

Couple the lipophilic nature of the fiber with the unabsorbency, and we have a real problem. Most carpet soil that can’t be removed with a vacuum cleaner are oxidized oils. If during the cleaning the cleaning technician over wets the carpet trying to remove the stain, the water will migrate back to the top during the drying process. The oily dried soil wicks back to the top and the carpet is rapidly re-soiled.

Cleaning olefin stains typically calls for using aggressive agitation at the carpet face coupled with a surfactant that is alkaline based.

The assumption is that the stone won’t polish after a 200 grit honing (in this video we went 50, 100 200 and followed this with 200 wet diamonds), however this video shows it is in fact possible. Are there any applications for this procedure in the real world? Who knows, but we did establish that a polish can be achieved!

We seal grout on two occasions: after we finish cleaning a tile floor, and after a new floor is installed.

This is the important final step that provides the following: a level of oil and water repelency. If you spill some mustard on the tile, and you stop what you are doing and wipe it up, the sealer will give you a better chance of removing the stain than if there were no sealer present.

What the sealer will not do is keep the floor from getting dirty.

As you can see in this video, we go to a lot of trouble to be sure the grout is sealed completly and there is very little sealer residue on the tile.

The need for dry vacuuming is well documented and recognized in various industry guidelines including the IICRC carpet cleaning standard S100. The reason — vacuuming the carpet before cleaning is one that has been proven as well as making good common sense. Because most cleaning methods use water at some point to remove suspended soils, it is recommended as much dry soil should be removed as possible before introduction of moisture.

Dry soils include: sand (and other dry soils like clay and feldspar), human and pet hair and skin, and dust. These types of soil are best removed when dry. The correct type of vacuum – one that has a separate motor for the beater bar and the vacuum bag – will separate the carpet fibers and remove these soil.

The beater bar is key here, because the steam cleaner wand or other cleaning device is not designed to separate fibers to remove dry soil. The steam cleaner wand has a slot that glides over the carpet spraying a mist of (hopefully) hot water followed by a vacuum slot. Typically the cleaner applies a water based traffic lane cleaner before this step, so if there is no dry vacuuming before this step, you can pretty much count on the fact you are getting a substandard (remember IICRC S100) cleaning job.

The typical carpet cleaning machine (no matter how large they are) is in reality an enlarged canister vacuum with a water supply. Once this canister vacuum squirts water on the carpet, the ability to remove dry soils is compromised. As I mentioned before this is as much a commonsense argument as it is scientific, and if you think about it, when you get hair wet, it will adhere to another fiber more readily.

If you ask a carpet cleaning technician, they will give you a party line “our units are so powerful that we don’t need to vacuum”. This is repeated many time each day to customers that want to know – deservedly – shouldn’t their carpet be vacuumed first? Trust your instincts on this.

Production values were low due primarily to director shortcuts.

These dry diamonds are unique in that they only work on stone other than true geological marble. If you are honing a verticle surface they are great because you don’t have to let your work dry between cuts. A full set is about $250. They are available (3′) from MB Stone, as is the MB12 polishing powder.  I am a customer and friend of MB Stone.

By Frederick M. Hueston PhD
www.stoneforensics.com
www.GoDrFred.com

The following is a reprint of an article I wrote back in 1990. I have edited some of the text to bring it up to date. My opinion on this process is still the same as it was in 1990. With that said there are some uses for this process, however care must be exercised in its use. Most of the damage I have seen since 1990 by this process results from the overuse of the product as well as the lack of trained personnel who apply it. The following reprint should give you some useful information on this process and the care that must be used when using it. In addition keep in mind that the chemicals contained in this process are not sustainable(Green) and can be extremely harmful to the user as well as occupants of the building it is used in.

RE-CRYSTALLIZATION

To answer the problems experienced by customers who had dull and scratched marble. I tried to find the best and most practical solution to the restoration of their marble floors, walls, etc.

Since this is a relatively small industry, there weren’t too many good sources. I did find some self-proclaimed “experts” who introduced me to the idea of “re-crystallization” as a safe and easy method of restoring and polishing marble and stone. They touted it as a time proven process which had its roots in the marble industry in Europe. It was alleged to be safe, easy to apply and was both slip resistant and permanent. In short, it was the perfect solution for most marble restoration and maintenance problems.

Having been raised in the “old” school, I instinctively doubt anything that appears “too good to be true”. Experience has taught me that most of those “too good to be true statements” usually turn out to be exactly that!

My business reputation is at stake whenever I recommend or use a product or procedure. I don’t take that responsibility lightly. So, I endeavored to get answers to some specific questions about this “re-crystallization” process (from the systems’ promoters).

Question #1. Does the “re-crystallization” process contain waxes?
Crystallization Answer: No.

Question #2. Does the process allow the stone to breath (transpire)?
Crystallization Answer: Vague generalizations and evasive replicas.

Question #3. How does “re-crystallization” react with stone?
Crystallization Answer: Evasive generalizations.

These evasive non-answers surprised me. Perhaps there was something that these crystallization “experts” did not know—or did not want me to know.

Though I am in stone consultation business, my formal education is in Chemistry. I had a natural curiosity about this wondrous process called “re-crystallization”. After all, if it worked, it would be great for my business. I determined to do some research on my own.

Following is a summary of my research:

TERMS

The term “crystallization” is defined as the process by which a substance takes the form of a crystal structure. Most minerals are crystal shaped. The term “re-crystallization” implies that a substance has been crystallization a second time. In other words, changed from one crystal shape to another.

In geology, re-crystallization takes place–under great pressure at high temperatures–deep in the earth and over thousands of years. My research showed that the natural re-crystallization of minerals such as those found in stone is unlikely to be obtained with the so-called packaged chemical “re-crystallization method” being marketed by a number of companies. We can therefore assume that the term “re-crystallization” is used only as a marketing term.

For the purpose of this article, we will use this term–re-crystallization–only as a description of the chemical process that follows.

METHODOLOGY

I obtained Material Safety Data Sheets (required by OSHA for all chemical products) from a good sample of “re-crystallization” product distributors.

From them, I learned that all the “re-crystallization products contained a fluorosilicate compound. All contained an acid of one type or another and almost all contained varying percentages of waxes and acrylics.

To understand how these ingredients react with marble, one needs to understand the makeup(natural composition) of marble, itself. The main constituent of marble is a compound called Calcium Carbonate (CaCO₃). Calcium Carbonate, along with other accessory minerals, makes up what we know as marble.

When an acid is dropped on marble it will burn and etch the surface leaving a pitted, dull spot. The reaction (Formula 1) illustrates what happens when an acid and marble come in contact with one another. The bond between the calcium and the carbonate is broken, producing water and carbon dioxide gas and the calcium carbonate is destroyed. In other words, acid destroys marble. All re-crystallization fluids contain acids.

If you have any doubts, place a drop of re-crystallization fluid on a piece of marble, wait just 30 seconds and wipe it off. You will find that it has etched.

FORMULA 1
CaCo₃ + HCL —————> Ca+ Co₃ + H₂O

The main ingredient used in re-crystallization fluid is a group of compounds called flurosilicons. Three types of fluorosilicates can be found in re-crystallization fluids: (1) Aluminum fluorosilicate (2) Magnesium fluorosilicate and (3) Zinc Fluorosilicate.

First used in 1883, flurosilicate compounds were used in an attempt to preserve marble statues that were crumbling. The effects of these compounds on stone were studied by several researchers and were found to have detrimental effects on the stone.

It was found that flourosilicates deposit an enamel on the surface of the stone which completely blocks its pores. The stone suffocates, begins to break apart and rot. The results of these studies can be found in the book Stone Decay and Conservation written by Glovanni G Amoroso and Vasco Passins–ELSEVIER, Amsterdam, Lausanne, Oxford, New York 1983.

The re-crystallization process uses an acid that attacks the calcium carbonate in the stone (Reaction 1). This reaction destroys the calcium carbonate and releases the calcium ion. The fluorosilicate compound then attaches itself to the calcium ion forming a new compound (Reaction 2 & 3). This new compound, calcium fluorosilicate forms an imperious film on the surface of the stone–totally blocking its pores.

REACTION 1
Ca CO₃ + —————-> Ca++AC +H₂O + CO₂

REACTION 2
MgSiF₆. H₂O + Ca++ ——————> CaSiF₆

REACTION 3
ZnSiF₆.H₂O + Ca++ ——————–> CaSiF₆

Based on the preceding facts. I have reached the following conclusions:

FACT: Marble and stone must breathe (transpire). If the pores are blocked, moisture from the slab (condensation, etc.) will be trapped and the stone will begin to break down.

FACT: The re-crystallization process places an impermeable coating of fluorosilicates on the stone, completely blocking its pores.

FACT: Acid will destroy marble and stone.

FACT: All crystallization fluids contain acids.

The above facts are clear and incontrovertible evidence. What is even more startling are the dozens of marble floors and walls I have seen that have been destroyed by this process.

Along with other responsible stone restoration firms in the industry. I urge anyone—even thinking about allowing a “crystallization” process to be used—to test the proposed products on a marble sample and judge the results for yourself. You will find the rapid deterioration of the marble frightening.

For the names of responsible stone restoration firms, you are invited to write Building Stone Institute, Marble Care and Maintenance Companies, 420 Lexington Ave. New York, New York 10170.

AN OPEN LETTER TO THE PEOPLE IN THE TRADE:

The extensive marketing of restoration methods using “re-crystallization “ is a very serious matter for everyone in the industry. The alarming increase in the number of complaints regarding permanently damaged marble and other stone floors and walls is hardly conducive to increased sales and use of our fine products. This damage could have— and should have—been avoided, I urge you to advise all your customers of the potential damage from any of these “re-crystallization” methods being marketed. Now that we know exactly what this so-called “re-crystallization” process is, we can answer the frequently asked question—Can a floor or wall that has been “re-crystallized” be saved?

Here are some guidelines:

First, determine that crystallization has actually been used. For a start, ask the customer. Some will tell you, others will flatly deny it, and still others simply won’t know.

If the shine on the marble or stone looks wavy (acrylic looking) then you can be fairly sure there is some type of coating on it. It is relatively easy to determine the type of coating. To do this two chemicals are needed: (1) a commercial wax stripper and (2) methyl chloride (wood furniture stripper).

Place a small amount of each chemical on the stone. If the commercial wax stripper removes the film then you are dealing with an acrylic type finish. Simply remove the finish with the stripper before starting the normal restoration or polishing process.

If the commercial stripper does not remove the coating but the methyl chloride does, then you have a urethane based coating. Remove it with methyl chloride or grind it off.

If neither one of these strippers removes the coating, the chances are it has been re-crystallized.

Another reliable clue is the presence of swirls on the marble (or other stone). These are caused by the use of steel wool during the re-crystallization machining process.

Make sure that before you attempt any polishing or grinding that you have determined the type of coating on the marble (stone). Be aware that there may be more than one coating—possibly an acrylic coating placed on top of a re-crystallization” coating, test several areas, to be sure.

If it is discovered that the marble (stone) has been re-crystallized– can it be saved?

This will depend on the severity of damage. For example. Travertine and Crema Marfil will exhibit damage almost immediately. Other stones, such as granite, will take longer. Still others will not show any apparent damage until the re-crystallized layer begins to wear off. It pays to become familiar with the various types of marbles and other stones.

There are a few general rules to determine the extent of damage.

These higher the CaCO₃, the more destructive the re-crystallization will have been.

The greater the number of applications of re-crystallization–over a period of time–the greater the chance of irreversible damage.

The veining in some marble will be adversely affected first. If these veined areas crumble easily, when probed with a blunt instrument, the stone may be damaged beyond repair. If the amount of veining is not too extensive, it may be saved by filling with a poly resin such as Akemi.

Perform several Patch Tests. Grind the stone and bring it up to a polish. If the stone polishes, the chance are it can be saved. CAUTION: make absolutely sure you have removed the re-crystallized layer entirely. We recommend starting with a 60 grit for most stones.

A FINAL WARNING

Some of the companies have begun to eliminate the term “re-crystallization” and are substituting “marble polishing” or “Vitrification”. Be cautious. Even if it carries the name of a nationally known chemical firm, check their claims. Ask to see the Material Safety Data Sheets. If the process contains fluorosilicates, do not use it. The hard sell “marketing” (selling franchises) of these products is bringing us very close to an epidemic of severely damaged marble (stone) floors. A few clients (who simply did not know better), having just installed brand new marble floors, have had terrible damage done to them. We all know that there is no such thing as a totally “maintenance free” floor. Marble, granite, slate–whatever–must be maintained. The type of maintenance varies with use. Obviously, an entrance foyer of a residence requires a very different maintenance schedule than the lobby of a downtown high-rise office building or a major hotel.

Maintenance can be done quite simply, using recommended products and procedures. However, after extensive wear and tear–over a long period of time–a client may wish to have professional restoration work done. This can best be achieved by employing a responsible firm using traditional methods. These firms will look at an installation and provide a written estimate not only of the costs involved (usually figured on a square foot basis) gut also the materials to be used. They should have their own equipment–and trained crews– who have quality experience with the marble and other stone floors.

Harry Edenfield owns Restoration by Fabric & Tile Masters in Jacksonville Florida. Harry also authors the FabricMasters Blog, where he offers information on a variety of topics related to stone counter tops, carpet cleaning, upholstery, porcelain and ceramic tiles, water damage restoration and mold removal. Harry is also a member of the IICRC, the Marble Institute of America, and is an Accredited Member of the Better Business Bureau of Northeast Florida.